Guide

Buying a Camper: What We Wish We Had Known Before

Reading time ~22 minutes

There are already plenty of guides telling you whether you should buy a campervan, motorhome, caravan, or expedition vehicle. And almost all of them give the same advice: rent one first, try it out, and then decide what to buy.

That’s not what this guide is about.

This is our personal list of things we wish we had known before buying a camper: details that seem insignificant on a spec sheet but make a real difference once you’re travelling — and features that sound convincing in a showroom but don’t suit every travel style.

Don’t buy a camper for the idea of camping. Buy it for the way you actually want to travel.

1. Before Thinking About Features: How Do You Actually Want to Travel?

Before looking at battery capacity, solar panels, awnings, four-wheel drive, or toilet systems, it’s worth describing what your actual day-to-day travel life will look like — not the perfect morning beside a remote lake, but an ordinary Tuesday on the road.

Ask yourselves:

How often will we change locations?
Do we usually want to stay one night or an entire week?
Will we mostly use campsites, or do we want to be as self-sufficient as possible?
What does “off-grid” actually mean to us — two days without hook-up or two weeks?
Will we travel mainly in summer, or in winter too?
Which countries do we want to visit?
Will we spend a lot of time inside the camper, or mostly live outdoors?
Do we want to visit cities, drive narrow mountain roads, or mainly stay on large campsites and motorhome pitches?

The answers affect almost every purchasing decision that follows.

Vehicle size isn’t just about comfort

A longer vehicle gives you more space, but possibly also fewer parking options, more difficult manoeuvring, and — depending on the country — restrictions on certain roads. Once you get beyond roughly 6.5 metres, it’s worth thinking carefully about where you actually intend to drive the vehicle.

The vehicle’s maximum permitted weight can also affect road restrictions, regulations, tolls, and other costs depending on the country.

2. Outside the Camper: Everything Hanging Underneath Matters

When viewing a camper, most people immediately look inside. Looking underneath it tells you a lot about how well thought through the conversion is.

Ground clearance matters more than you might think

Ground clearance sounds like something only overlanders need, but it becomes relevant on a steep ferry ramp, a rough parking area, a washed-out track, or a slightly ambitious campsite entrance.

So look underneath the vehicle:

How low does the electric step sit?
Where is the waste-water tank?
How are pipes and cables routed?
Are there heating ducts underneath the vehicle?
Are there other components reducing the actual ground clearance?

What matters is the lowest point of the vehicle, not the figure on the spec sheet. An electric step can cancel out a suspension lift in practice.

Underbody protection and build quality

Take a proper look at how the conversion is executed underneath the vehicle: are cables and hoses securely mounted and protected, or does the routing look improvised?

Pay particular attention to:

underbody protection,
cable routing,
water pipes,
waste-water pipes,
tank mounting,
heating ducts.

This becomes especially important if you intend to travel during winter.

Water tanks, waste water, and pipes: look beyond “winterised”

An insulated waste-water tank on its own says little. Check the pipes as well: where do the fresh-water and waste-water pipes run, and are any external pipes insulated?

If a tank is heated, the second question is: how is it heated? Some campers use warm-air ducts running underneath the vehicle. In that case, check whether those ducts are insulated themselves — otherwise a large share of the heat is lost on the way to the tank.

3. Accessories: Do You Actually Need Them?

More equipment feels like better value when buying. But every additional component potentially means:

more weight, more cost, more maintenance, another possible point of failure, and sometimes less ground clearance.

Awning

If you regularly spend several days on campsites or pitches, you’ll use an awning often. If you move every morning and mostly camp away from traditional campsites, you’re mainly carrying extra weight on the side of the vehicle. Again, it comes down to how you travel.

Bull bars, auxiliary lights, and other adventure accessories

A front bar adds weight and, depending on its design, can reduce ground clearance or the vehicle’s approach angle.

For auxiliary lighting, the question is when you’re actually going to use it. Roof-mounted lights in particular have an effect that isn’t obvious beforehand: in heavy snowfall, they illuminate the snow directly in front of you and impair your own visibility.

4. Tyres: Bigger and More Aggressive Isn’t Automatically Better

Large all-terrain tyres look great on a camper, but it makes more sense to decide based on use rather than appearance: AT tyres can be noisier and, depending on the model, perform worse on wet roads than good road or all-season tyres. For many travellers, a good set of all-season tyres is the more practical everyday choice.

Also think about the less obvious points:

How easily can you replace that tyre somewhere abroad? An unusual tyre size can become a real problem when you have a puncture in another country.

Snow chains are another consideration. In some countries and conditions they are mandatory, and certain large wheel and tyre combinations make fitting them difficult or impossible. That can be checked before buying.

5. Do You Really Need Four-Wheel Drive?

4×4 sounds appealing on a camper. It’s worth asking a different question first:

Do we actually need four-wheel drive, or do we mainly need decent ground clearance?

Depending on the vehicle, four-wheel drive means additional weight, complexity, cost, and sometimes increased fuel consumption.

One aspect that’s easily overlooked: four-wheel-drive conversions often affect the interior. Depending on the design, the habitation floor sits higher because the drivetrain and, in some cases, a raised suspension need the space. With the same external height, that leaves less standing height inside the camper and increases the step-in height. At the same time, the vehicle’s overall height grows, which matters for ferries, car parks, barriers, and low entrances.

So check the actual standing height during a viewing — ideally against the same model without four-wheel drive. If you spend a lot of time inside the camper, a few centimetres less standing height is something you notice every day. If you mainly use the camper for sleeping and spend your days outside, you’ll weigh it differently.

If the most challenging terrain you regularly encounter is a gravel campsite, the benefit of four-wheel drive is limited. Here too, your actual travel style decides.

6. Weight: 500 kg of Payload Is Surprisingly Little

This is one of those things that can hardly be taken seriously enough: calculate your payload — don’t estimate it, calculate it.

500 kg sounds like quite a lot. Then add:

driver and passengers,
water,
gas,
bicycles,
food,
clothes,
camping furniture,
cookware,
tools,
cables and adapters,
electronics,
an awning,
perhaps another battery,
future upgrades,
and all the random stuff that accumulates over time.

Make sure you know what your actual vehicle weighs and how much genuine payload remains once it has been fully equipped. A brochure figure isn’t much help if your finished vehicle is significantly heavier.

7. Pop-Top Roofs: An Extra Bed With Compromises

A pop-top roof gives you another bed without having to drive a substantially larger vehicle. In return, there are a few compromises:

It gets cold up there in winter and warm in summer.
The mattresses are often thin, and sleeping comfort isn’t comparable to a proper fixed bed.
If you need the toilet during the night, you have to climb down.

None of this rules a pop-top out. But it shouldn’t be judged solely on how it feels on a sunny afternoon at a dealership.

8. Panoramic Roofs: Light Versus Storage

Large panoramic windows above the cab bring a lot of light into the camper. At the same time, they mean:

more heat in summer,
another large surface that needs to be blacked out at night,
another potential source of leaks,
and, particularly in panel vans, less storage space above the cab.

So the question isn’t whether a panoramic roof is beautiful, but: are the compromises worth the extra light to you?

9. Interior Layout: Plan for Real Life, Not the Showroom

Almost every camper works in a showroom: you sit inside for five minutes, fold out a table, and you’re convinced. Try to simulate your actual daily life instead.

When it rains for three days and both of you are stuck inside, does the layout still work?
Do you really need four seats?
Do you need a television, or are you going to watch everything on a tablet or laptop anyway?
Where do your jackets and shoes go?
Where do two pairs of wet shoes go?
Where does the backpack live when you’re not using it?

A layout doesn’t just have to look good — it has to work in daily use.

The kitchen: test the hob, your pots, and the worktop

The kitchen can be tested concretely during a viewing, ideally with your own cookware:

Put different combinations of pots on the hob: do two larger pots fit side by side at the same time, or do the handles clash with each other or with the wall?
Can you use a large frying pan without it overhanging the neighbouring burner?
Does the open hob or sink cover get in the way anywhere?
How much worktop is left while you’re actually cooking?
Do your pots, pans, and lids fit into the cupboards provided (see also point 21)?
Is the sink big enough to wash your largest item?
Is the fridge big enough and still accessible when someone is standing in front of the kitchen?

With induction, not every pot works, and depending on the appliance the zones can’t all run at full power at the same time.

10. Never Compromise on the Bed

If there’s one point we’d particularly emphasise, it’s this: lie on the bed — not for ten seconds, but properly, together, and in your normal sleeping positions.

Is it long enough? Wide enough? Can you turn over? Do you have to sleep diagonally? Can one person get up during the night without climbing over the other? And most importantly: is the mattress comfortable?

A bed that doesn’t fit is hard to change later — and it affects every single night.

11. Heating: Don’t Just Look at the Specification

More important than which heater is installed is how the heat is distributed:

Where are the vents?
Does enough heat reach the bathroom?
Is the sleeping area properly heated?
Are there obvious cold spots?

And then: turn the heating on. How loud is the fan, and how strong is the airflow at each vent? A loud fan beside your head, or an outlet that barely delivers warm air, puts any rated output into perspective.

12. The Bathroom: Do the Reality Test

You don’t need a huge bathroom, but you do need a usable one. A simple test helps at every viewing:

Sit on the toilet. Then stand in front of the sink and pretend to wash your face. Many campers fail this test because the shape of the basin, the tap, or the headroom allow you to wash your hands but not your face.

How much work is it to take a shower?

Check whether you need to convert half the bathroom before you can shower, or whether the shower is usable straight away.

Also look at the drains. A single drain only works as long as the vehicle is parked at an angle that lets the water reach it. Several sensibly positioned drains make a noticeable difference in everyday use.

A bathroom window matters

Showering produces a lot of moisture in a very small space. A window lets you get that moisture straight outside instead of distributing it through the vehicle. For us, a window or effective ventilation belongs in the bathroom — and it’s quickly checked during a viewing.

Shower curtains

In small wet rooms, shower curtains tend to stick to your body. Then the modifications begin — a magnet here, a cord there, another clip — and a quick shower turns into a procedure.

If a solution already annoys you during the viewing, it won’t improve after six months on the road.

13. Water Systems: Submersible Pump or Pressure Pump?

The water pump receives very little attention when buying a camper, but it’s worth understanding the system.

Submersible pumps are relatively simple. Pressure pumps provide more consistent water pressure, but you should know how the system is protected and what happens if something fails: a pressure pump running unintentionally can pump water into the one place you don’t want it — inside your camper.

14. Electricity: Calculate First, Buy Second

It’s easy to spend a lot of money on a camper electrical system. Our recommendation: use one of the many camper power-consumption calculators before deciding what to buy, and work out what you genuinely consume. Which devices do you use, for how long, and how often? Here too, the answer depends on how you travel.

Also learn about the differences between AGM and LiFePO4 batteries, and don’t focus solely on headline capacity — what matters is the energy you can actually use.

A big battery has to be recharged

800 Ah of battery capacity sounds impressive. The decisive questions are how you put that energy back in and how long that takes.

For travellers who move frequently and travel in winter, a powerful DC-to-DC charger is important. Solar alone doesn’t always cover it.

15. Solar: Where Are You Actually Going to Park?

A typical scenario: 35°C in summer, with a choice between a parking space in full sun and a spot underneath trees. Choosing the shade puts your solar panels in the shade too. That’s why solar has to match the way you travel.

Rooftop solar generates electricity automatically whenever conditions are suitable — including during a break or while you’re out shopping.
Portable solar panels can be placed in the sun while the camper stays in the shade. But you have to set them up and pack them away, and they produce nothing while you’re driving or shopping.

A combination of both can be the right answer — as a deliberate decision rather than an accident.

16. USB-C: Don’t Skimp Here

For us, USB-C outlets are essential in a modern camper, and you need:

enough of them,
in sensible locations,
with sufficient power.

A low-power USB-C socket can’t charge a laptop. Today, we’d look for connections delivering at least around 40 watts — and considerably more depending on your devices.

Also pay attention to where the sockets are installed: beside the bed, at the table, near possible work areas, and somewhere your devices can actually sit while charging. You notice these details every single day.

17. Inverters: Do You Really Need 230V?

We’d now avoid a large inverter where possible, because a huge number of devices run directly from USB-C or 12V: phones, tablets, laptops, cameras, and even certain Starlink setups don’t require a conventional 230V outlet.

The equation changes if you want to run a powerful coffee machine, air fryer, hairdryer, or induction hob. Then you need the appropriate inverter and battery capacity.

The order of the questions matters. Instead of:

“We have an inverter — what can we run from it?”

Ask:

“Which devices do we actually need — and do they require an inverter at all?”

18. Internet: How Connected Are You on the Road?

There’s no universal answer when it comes to internet access. Someone who occasionally sends messages and uses Google Maps has different requirements from someone who works remotely or streams every evening.

A permanently installed 5G router with an external antenna can make a lot of sense. Starlink is an addition mainly for remote areas, but it comes with compromises: it needs a reasonably clear view of the sky, costs extra, and consumes electricity. With the right USB-C setup that consumption integrates well into a camper electrical system, but it still belongs in your energy calculations.

19. Gas, Diesel, or Electricity?

Gas works reliably, but it also means another resource you have to look after: when the bottle is empty, you need a replacement or somewhere to refill it. International travellers will also find that gas supply, bottle systems, and connectors aren’t identical everywhere.

A diesel heater is attractive because the fuel is already carried by the vehicle.

For cooking, induction is convenient but requires substantial electrical power, and therefore usually a powerful inverter and a battery system designed to support it. That means building a large electrical system around an appliance that often runs for ten minutes twice a day. It can make sense, but it should be a conscious trade-off.

20. Toilets: The Subject Nobody Wants to Talk About

After a few days on the road the toilet becomes fairly relevant, so it’s worth comparing the systems before buying.

Chemical toilets

The traditional cassette toilet works well in principle, but it needs emptying regularly and requires suitable disposal facilities. Depending on usage, that can mean every two or three days. If you plan to spend a lot of time away from campsites and service points, check whether that suits the way you travel.

Bag-sealing toilets

The principle is simple: use the toilet, seal the bag, done. In return you continuously produce waste, and the sealed bags have to be stored somewhere until you can dispose of them.

You also rely on consumables — and need a Plan B if you run out. Then there’s the question of whether you want to seal a new bag after every single use.

Dry separation toilets

We chose a dry separation toilet and are very happy with it. The urine is collected separately and can be emptied into a suitable toilet; with two containers, the two of us usually manage around five to six days. The solids container generally lasts us two to three weeks.

For the way we travel, that works well — and that’s what the choice of system comes down to.

21. Storage: The Number of Litres Tells You Very Little

“Lots of storage” says little about how much of it is actually usable. Open the cupboards during a viewing and check specifically:

Will your plates fit?
Your pots, pans, and lids?
Your food?
Are there useful drawers, or will you have to crawl into a deep cupboard every time?
Where will the shoes go?
Where do wet jackets go?
Where do the things you use every day live?

And if there’s a rear garage: can you reach the important items without unloading five other boxes first?

What matters isn’t the size of the storage, but your access to your things.

22. Serviceability: Something Will Eventually Break

No matter what the camper costs, at some point something will stop working. So during a viewing it’s worth looking at serviceability:

Where is the leisure battery, and can you actually reach it?
Where do the electrical cables run?
Are the fuses accessible?
Can you get to the water pipes and connections?
Can you replace a pump without dismantling a cupboard first?
Is there room to add another battery, a DC-to-DC charger, or other equipment later?

A fully concealed technical compartment looks good but makes every repair harder.

23. Furniture: Open Everything

During a viewing, open the cupboards, pull out the drawers, move the doors, and test the catches — more than once. Hinges are a classic weak point.

Pay attention to:

How solid does everything feel?
How are doors secured while driving?
How are the bathroom solutions implemented?
Does anything rattle?
Are the edges and joints properly finished?

A camper is a small house travelling down the motorway at 100 km/h while vibrating continuously. Furniture that only just feels acceptable in the showroom takes a lot of punishment on the road.

24. The “Off-Grid Package”: Off-Grid for Whom?

“Off-grid package” is a sales term without a fixed definition. The dealer knows neither your electricity consumption nor your travel style:

Do you want to stay in one place for three days or three weeks?
Do you travel in winter?
Do you charge two laptops every day?
Do you use Starlink?
Do you make coffee every morning with a 1,500-watt appliance?

Before buying an “off-grid package”, work out what you actually need. Otherwise you may be buying an expensive answer to a question you never asked.

25. Air Conditioning: Ask When It Actually Works

An air-conditioning system raises one question above all: what powers it? Many conventional habitation air-conditioning systems are designed in practice to run on shore power. Battery operation is possible with large battery banks and appropriately sized inverters, but then we’re talking about a completely different level of energy consumption.

So ask specifically:

How long can it run without shore power?
How much power does it consume?
What size battery and inverter would you need?
How are you going to put all that energy back into the battery afterwards?

26. The Base Vehicle: The Latest Technology Isn’t Always the Most Practical

When buying a camper, it’s easy to focus entirely on the living area. Underneath it all there’s still a vehicle that needs servicing and repairing.

Modern technology is often more efficient, more comfortable, and cleaner, and brings plenty of driver-assistance systems, but it’s also more complex. Before buying, we’d look at:

How common is this base vehicle?
What is the service network like in the countries we plan to visit?
How readily available are spare parts?
What routine maintenance does it require?
Can we check basic things ourselves?
Are there known issues with this particular engine and gearbox combination?

One example is a vehicle without a traditional oil dipstick: checking the oil level or carrying out a simple oil service becomes more involved than expected.

27. Our Camper Viewing Checklist

Instead of just walking through the interior, we’d test systematically today.

Exterior and underbody

Weight and running gear

Sleeping and living

Actually lie on the bed
Check the bed length
Check the bed width
Test the mattress
Simulate getting up during the night
Try all seating positions
Test the table
Imagine how the interior would work during three days of rain

Kitchen

Test different combinations of pots on the hob
Check whether two large pots fit side by side at the same time
Try a large frying pan on the hob
Assess the worktop space left while cooking
Check the size of the sink
Check the size and accessibility of the fridge
With induction: check pot compatibility and whether both zones can run together

Bathroom

Sit on the toilet
Pretend to wash your face
Try the shower
Check how much conversion is required before showering
Check the number and position of the drains
Check the window and ventilation
Take a critical look at the shower-curtain solution

Heating and winter use

Turn the heater on
Check the fan noise
Check airflow from every outlet
Check outlets around the sleeping area
Check how well the bathroom is heated
Understand how tanks and pipes are protected from freezing
Decide whether the insulation matches your intended travel style

Water

Find out which type of pump is installed
Test the water pressure
Check access to the pump
Check access to the water pipes
Understand what happens if something fails

Electricity

Calculate your expected power consumption beforehand
Check the battery type
Understand the genuinely usable battery capacity
Check the DC-to-DC charger and charging rate
Consider solar in relation to how and where you camp
Check the location and output of USB-C sockets
Decide whether you genuinely need an inverter
Check whether there is space for future upgrades

Storage and furniture

Open every cupboard
Try every drawer
Check the hinges
Test all catches and locks
Work out where shoes will go
Check where jackets can be stored
Check whether kitchen cupboards are actually usable
Test access to the rear garage
Make sure frequently used items can be reached easily

Technology and maintenance

Find the leisure battery
Find the fuses
Check access to the electrical system
Check access to the water system
Look for space for future upgrades
Research the base vehicle and service network
Understand the base vehicle’s maintenance requirements

28. The Most Important Thought of All

When people buy campers, a lot of attention goes into equipment: how many watts of solar? How big is the battery? Four-wheel drive, awning, panoramic roof, air conditioning, TV, diesel heater?

These are all reasonable questions. But another one comes first:

What problem in our actual travel life is this feature supposed to solve?

If there’s no answer, you probably don’t need the feature. In our experience, a good camper isn’t the one with the longest equipment list, but the one where the things you genuinely need have been properly thought through.