Kraków: castles and country charm
After stopping in Warsaw, we headed south to one of Poland's most popular cities: Kraków.
While many visitors head straight for the old town, we took a slightly different approach and it paid off.
Just outside the city, we found a dreamy campsite on the property of a warm-hearted family who run a B&B in their historic manor house.
Wilma got a shady spot under the trees, and we were greeted with open arms by our hosts, Martha and Michał.
They told us about the history of the house which was in the families' possession over 200 years ago. Then with the UDSSR the house and the land was taken and declared property of the state. After the end of the UDSSR Poland remains one of the only countries not to give properties like these back to the families. Instead the family had to purchase the land and the house back from the state in the early 2000s. What an incredible injustice to endure twice … and even more impressive they managed to get it back and restore it they way they did!
They also shared stories from the region and even let us set up our laptops in the beautifully restored rooms. It was a serious upgrade from van-desk life! Remote working has never felt so classy. As if that weren't enough, we also joined them for a long, cosy breakfast full of local and homemade treats. At the breakfast table we learned that they, too dream a little bit of van life!
Into the heart of Kraków
Thanks to the easy 15-minute train ride into the city centre, we were able to explore Kraków without worrying about parking. And let us tell you, this city is something special.
It is lively yet relaxed, steeped in history yet buzzing with youthful energy.
We wandered through the charming alleyways of the old town and admired the grandeur of Wawel Castle overlooking the Vistula river. Down by the river, we stopped to watch a group of older men playing chess. They were completely focused, moving pieces in near silence — a live-action version of The Queen's Gambit, minus the dramatic music and cameras. In the nearby Jewish Quarter (Kazimierz), we strolled past historic synagogues, street art, cosy bars and bookshops.
We also spent time at Rynek Główny, one of the city's most beloved squares and, in fact, the largest medieval square in Europe. Spanning almost four hectares, this 13th-century plaza was once a bustling hub for international trade. Today, it remains the heart of the city, surrounded by beautiful buildings, street performers, horse-drawn carriages and countless places to sit and watch the world go by.
Just off the square stands the stunning St. Mary's Basilica, an impressive Gothic church with a slightly tilted tower and a richly decorated interior. Every hour, a trumpeter plays the Hejnał Mariacki from the highest tower – a tradition with a story behind it (and which requires considerable lung power).
After wandering through Kraków for a few hours, we needed fuel, so what better way to refuel than with a proper Polish Zapiekanka? Imagine a crispy baguette topped with mushrooms, melted cheese and ketchup that leaves you feeling completely satisfied.
And while the city's deep history is ever-present, Kraków also feels young and vibrant.
Fun fact: it has more students per square metre than any other city in Poland, which may explain the impressive number of bars, cafés and late-night snack spots.
If you're visiting Kraków, be sure to stay with Martha and Michał. Their little haven (or heaven?!) outside the city made our visit truly special nowydworwgoszycach.pl →. Thank you! 💛